Relationship between sensorial and physical characteristics of topical creams: A comparative study on effects of excipients

• Published in: International journal of pharmaceutics Vol. 613; p. 121370
• Main Authors: Ali, A, Skedung, L, Burleigh, S, Lavant, E, Ringstad, L, Anderson, CD, Wahlgren, M, Engblom, J
• Format: Journal Article
• Language: English
• Published: Netherlands Elsevier B.V 05-02-2022
• Subjects: Annan teknik; cosmetic; Cosmetics; emollient agent; Emollients; Engineering and Technology; excipient; Excipients; Food Engineering; Friction; human; Humans; Livsmedelsteknik; Modified starch; Other Engineering and Technologies; Pickering emulsions; Rheology; Sensory study; Skin; Surfactant-free formulations; Tactile friction; Teknik; Topical creams; TEWL; SC.c; Rheology; F; G; a.u; LVR; Topical creams; χ2; L; PC.c; Tactile friction; SC; Pickering emulsions; Modified starch; δ; µ; Sensory study; O/W; PLS; Surfactant-free formulations; LSD; µS
• ISSN: 0378-5173; 1873-3476; 1873-3476
• DOI: 10.1016/j.ijpharm.2021.121370

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•Tactile friction and rheology can be used to predict sensorial attributes of topical creams.•Starch-based Pickering cream was perceived as less greasy, sticky, slippery and soft than surfactant-based creams.•The type of emollient used, and the presence of thickeners have great impact on the difference in rheological and sensory results among surfactant-based creams.
Rising consumer demands for safer, more natural, and sustainable topical products have led to increased interest in finding alternative excipients, while retaining functionality and cosmetic appeal. Particle-stabilized Pickering creams have emerged as possible alternatives to replace traditional surfactant-stabilized creams and are thus one of the focuses in this study. The aim of this paper was to study relationships between sensorial characteristics and physical properties to understand how different excipients affect these aspects, comparing one starch particle–stabilized and three surfactant-stabilized formulations. A human panel was used to evaluate sensorial perception, while physical properties were deduced by rheology and tactile friction, together with in vivo and ex vivo skin hydration measurements.
The results show that sensorial attributes related to the application phase can be predicted with rheology, while afterfeel attributes can be predicted with tactile friction studies. Differences in rheological and sensory properties among surfactant-based creams could mainly be attributed to the type of emollients used, presence of thickeners and surfactant composition. Differences between surfactant-based creams and a Pickering cream were more evident in relation to the afterfeel perception. Presence of starch particles in the residual film on skin results in high tactile friction and low perception of residual coating, stickiness, greasiness, and slipperiness in sensorial afterfeel.