Novel cosmetic formulations containing a biosurfactant from Lactobacillus paracasei

• Published in: Colloids and surfaces, B, Biointerfaces Vol. 155; pp. 522 - 529
• Main Authors: Ferreira, A., Vecino, X., Ferreira, D., Cruz, J.M., Moldes, A.B., Rodrigues, L.R.
• Format: Journal Article
• Language: English
• Published: Netherlands Elsevier B.V 01-07-2017; Elsevier 1
• Subjects: 3T3 Cells; Animals; Antioxidants; Antioxidants - chemistry; Biological Products - chemistry; Biosurfactant; Cell Proliferation - drug effects; Cell Survival - drug effects; Cells; Cosmetics - chemistry; Emulsifying Agents - chemistry; Emulsifying Agents - pharmacology; Emulsions; Emulsions - chemistry; Emulsions - pharmacology; Essential oils; Lactobacillus paracasei - chemistry; Mice; Oils, Volatile - chemistry; Science & Technology; Skin; Sodium Dodecyl Sulfate - chemistry; Sodium Dodecyl Sulfate - pharmacology; Surface-Active Agents - chemistry; Biosurfactant; Antioxidants; Skin; Emulsions; Essential oils; Cells
• ISSN: 0927-7765; 1873-4367; 0927-7765
• DOI: 10.1016/j.colsurfb.2017.04.026

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•Novel application of the Lactobacillus paracasei biosurfactant in cosmetic formulations.•The biosurfactant stabilizes oil-in-water emulsions.•EV values of 100% were obtained for formulations prepared with the biosurfactant.•L. paracasei biosurfactant and its formulations did not affect cell proliferation.
Cosmetic and personal care products including toothpaste, shampoo, creams, makeup, among others, are usually formulated with petroleum-based surfactants, although in the last years the consume trend for “green” products is inducing the replacement of surface-active agents in these formulations by natural surfactants, so-called biosurfactants. In addition to their surfactant capacity, many biosurfactants can act as good emulsifiers, which is an extra advantage in the preparation of green cosmetic products. In this work, a biosurfactant obtained from Lactobacillus paracasei was used as a stabilizing agent in oil-in-water emulsions containing essential oils and natural antioxidant extract. In the presence of biosurfactant, maximum percentages of emulsion volumes (EV=100%) were observed, with droplets sizes about 199nm. These results were comparable with the ones obtained using sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS), a synthetic well known surfactant with high emulsify capacity. Moreover, the biosurfactant and emulsions cytotoxicity was evaluated using a mouse fibroblast cell line. Solutions containing 5g/L of biosurfactant presented cell proliferation values of 97%, whereas 0.5g/L of SDS showed a strong inhibitory effect. Overall, the results herein gathered are very promising towards the development of new green cosmetic formulations.