Trends in the Use of Botanicals in Anti-Aging Cosmetics

• Published in: Molecules (Basel, Switzerland) Vol. 26; no. 12; p. 3584
• Main Authors: Ferreira, Marta, Magalhães, Maria, Oliveira, Rita, Sousa-Lobo, José, Almeida, Isabel
• Format: Journal Article
• Language: English
• Published: Basel MDPI AG 11-06-2021; MDPI
• Subjects: Aging; Anthocyanins; anti-aging; Anti-inflammatory agents; Antioxidants; Biological activity; botanical; Collagen; Cosmetics; DNA methylation; Enzymes; Fatty acids; Flavonoids; Gene expression; Glycine; Inflammation; Ingredients; Light; Lipid peroxidation; market; Polyphenols; preparations; Proanthocyanidins; Seeds; Skin; Trends; Vitamin E
• ISSN: 1420-3049; 1420-3049
• DOI: 10.3390/molecules26123584

Botanical ingredients have been used for thousands of years in skincare for their convenience as well as the diversity and abundance in compounds with biological activity. Among these, polyphenols and especially flavonoids have gained increasing prominence due to their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. In this study, the most used botanical preparations in anti-aging products marketed in 2011 were determined. The analysis was repeated in 2018 for new and reformulated products. The scientific evidence for their application as active ingredients in anti-aging cosmetics and their flavonoid content was also compiled by searching in online scientific databases. Overall, in 2018, there was a noticeable increase in the use of botanical preparations in anti-aging cosmetics. However, the top three botanical species in both years were Vitis vinifera, Butyrospermum parkii, and Glycine soja, which is consistent with the greater amount of scientific evidence supporting their efficacy. Regarding the function of botanical preparations, there is a clear preference for DNA-protecting ingredients. The most prevalent flavonoids were flavan-3-ols, proanthocyanidins, and anthocyanins. This study provided an updated overview of the market trends regarding the use of botanicals in anti-aging products and documented the state of the art of scientific evidence for the most used plants.