Application of the XBeach-Gravel Model for the Case of East Adriatic Sea-Wave Conditions

• Published in: Journal of marine science and engineering Vol. 11; no. 3; p. 680
• Main Authors: Bogovac, Tonko, Carević, Dalibor, Bujak, Damjan, Miličević, Hanna
• Format: Journal Article
• Language: English
• Published: Basel MDPI AG 01-03-2023
• Subjects: Adriatic; beach nourishment; Beaches; Berms; Calibration; Climate change; Coasts; Comparative analysis; Datasets; Emissions; erosion; Experiments; Geodetic surveys; Gravel; Hydraulics; Laboratories; Mathematical models; Neural networks; Numerical models; Peak periods; Performance evaluation; Sediment; Sediment transport; Sediments; Significant wave height; Simulation; Soil erosion; Storms; Tourism; Transport properties; Wave climate; Wave height; XBeach; Croatia
• ISSN: 2077-1312; 2077-1312
• DOI: 10.3390/jmse11030680

Croatia’s coast located on the eastern Adriatic is rich with small gravel beaches with limited fetch. This leads to a specific low-energetic wave climate compared to most other beaches, while their gravel composition makes them unique. Most management of these beaches is performed without understanding the sediment transport occurring on the beaches. XBeach-Gravel is a numerical model capable of simulating bed-level change on gravel beaches, but lacks validation in the case of low significant wave height (under 2.5 m) and low peak periods (under 6 s), conditions that are present on the eastern Adriatic. Based on measurements performed in both laboratory conditions in a water canal in Hannover and actual storm wave conditions on Ploče beach, calibration of the model is performed. Model results are compared between laboratory conditions and field conditions for comparable wave conditions. XBeach-Gravel can simulate low-energetic events resulting in berm formation and berm buildup with a high Brier skill score if calibrated. Simulation of laboratory conditions requires high transport coefficient values and shows more sediment transport than similar wave conditions in the field. Calibration for field conditions is dependent on geodetic survey data capable of isolating wave events with dominant cross-shore transport, but once calibrated, XBeach-Gravel can achieve good to excellent Brier skill score values in simulating sediment change in low-energetic wave conditions on the eastern Adriatic.