Sniffing Out the Sustainable Future: The Renewability Revolution in Fragrance Chemistry

• Published in: Chemistry : a European journal Vol. 30; no. 19; p. e202400006
• Main Authors: Elterlein, Franziska, Bugdahn, Nikolas, Kraft, Philip
• Format: Journal Article
• Language: English
• Published: Germany Wiley Subscription Services, Inc 02-04-2024
• Subjects: Beverages; Biodegradability; Biodegradation; Essential oils; Fragrances; Green chemistry; Impact analysis; Ingredients; Linalool; Petrochemicals; Salicylates; Sustainability; Vanillin; fragrances odorants; olfactory properties; Terpenoids; renewability sustainability; crude sulfate terpentine green chemistry
• ISSN: 0947-6539; 1521-3765
• DOI: 10.1002/chem.202400006

In this review, the impact of the transition from today's petrochemical economy towards a 100/100 renewable and biodegradable future is discussed: "citrus", "green", "fruity", "floral", "floriental", "oriental", "woody", "chypre" and "fougère". After benchmark data on ingredients usage, definitions on biodegradation and sustainability are given. Celebrating the 150th anniversary of svanillin, its historic synthesis from renewable starting materials serves as introduction. Citrus scents upcycled from the beverages industry are already an ideal case for 100/100 with new opportunities for artificial essential oils. In the fruity domain, transparent and lactonic ingredients are available in a sustainable manner. In the domain of green odorants, there is a lack of green chemistry for important key materials. In the floral family, renewability is more critical than biodegradability, but cost is an issue. Thanks to Ambrox and maltol, florientals and orientals will persist, while woody notes severely lack an Iso E Super replacer. In the chypre genre, patchouli became the new moss, but more musks are increasingly in demand. With their high percentage of linalool and dihydromyrcenol, the construction of fougères could well become a precedent for other families, despite challenges in vetiver and salicylates. Still, the challenges exemplified create immense opportunities for new perfumery materials.