Textile dyeing using natural mordants and dyes: a review

• Published in: Environmental chemistry letters Vol. 22; no. 3; pp. 1473 - 1520
• Main Authors: Repon, Md. Reazuddin, Dev, Barshan, Rahman, Md Ashikur, Jurkonienė, Sigita, Haji, Aminoddin, Alim, Md. Abdul, Kumpikaitė, Eglė
• Format: Journal Article
• Language: English
• Published: Cham Springer International Publishing 01-06-2024; Springer Nature B.V
• Subjects: Analytical Chemistry; Biodegradation; Color fastness; Cosmetics; Dyeing; Dyes; Earth and Environmental Science; Ecotoxicology; Environment; Environmental Chemistry; Flavonoids; Gamma irradiation; Geochemistry; Irradiation; Microwave radiation; Mordant dyes; Pollution; Production methods; Review Article; Shades; Sonication; Textile industry; Textiles; Ultraviolet radiation; γ Radiation; Plant extract; Fastness; Colorant; Sustainability; Metallic mordant; Eco-friendly
• ISSN: 1610-3653; 1610-3661
• DOI: 10.1007/s10311-024-01716-4

The rising pollution by synthetic dyes from the textile industry is a serious health problem calling for safer chemicals and textile production methods. As an alternative, bio-based colorants are increasingly used for food, cosmetics, flavors, medical applications. Here we review bio-based textile dyeing with focus on dye classification, methods to improve dyeing, and mordants and bio-mordants. Dyes are classified according to their origin such as plant, animal, mineral, microbes, and waste; their chemical structure, e.g., indigoid, flavonoid, and tannin dyes; their color; and their application such as mordant dyes and direct dyes. Methods to improve dyeing include sonication, plasma, ultraviolet, microwave, and gamma irradiation. Most bio-based dyes are biodegradable, renewable, non-hazardous, non-allergic, and simple to use. Yet bio-based dyes are limited by poor color fastness and a constrained palette of shades. These limitations can be resolved by using mordants on textile materials. Bio-mordants enhance the bonding of natural dyes to the fabric, resulting in textiles that exhibit excellent washing fastness.