Investigation on the Biological Safety and Activity of a Gluconolactone-Based Lotion for Dermocosmetic Application

• Published in: Pharmaceuticals (Basel, Switzerland) Vol. 16; no. 5; p. 655
• Main Authors: Zerbinati, Nicola, Di Francesco, Serena, Capillo, Maria Chiara, Maccario, Cristina, Stabile, Giorgio, Galadari, Hassan, Rauso, Raffaele, Sommatis, Sabrina, Mocchi, Roberto
• Format: Journal Article
• Language: English
• Published: Switzerland MDPI AG 27-04-2023; MDPI
• Subjects: Acne; Adipocytes; Aging; Autoimmune diseases; biosafety; Collagen; cosmeceutical; Cosmetics; Dermatologic agents; Dermatology; Dosage and administration; Elastin; Extracellular matrix; Fibroblasts; Formulae, receipts, prescriptions; Free radicals; Gene expression; gluconolactone; Health aspects; Lipids; Metabolism; Pore size; Proteins; Skin; skin care; Skin care products; skin-ageing; Testing; Italy; France; Germany; California; skin-ageing; gluconolactone; skin care; cosmeceutical; biosafety
• ISSN: 1424-8247; 1424-8247
• DOI: 10.3390/ph16050655

(1) Background: Cosmeceuticals are formulas enriched with active ingredients that exert efficacy on different skin molecular targets. (2) Methods: Cell viability and the absence of potential irritant risk were evaluated on keratinocytes (HaCaT), fibroblasts (NHDF), adipocytes (3T3-L1), sebocytes (PCi-SEB_CAU) and reconstructed human epidermis (RHE), respectively. Several treatments were performed to evaluate the ability of the lotion to stimulate the production of collagen and elastin, stimulate the differentiation of keratinocytes and reduce the number of senescent cells following UVB stimulation. In addition, the modulation of genes involved in the production, storage and accumulation of sebum were investigated. (3) Results: The results obtained demonstrated the biosafety of the formula in all cell lines tested. The 24-h treatment with non-cytotoxic concentrations determined an increase in the expression of the collagen (COL1A1), elastin (ELN) and involucrin (IVL) genes, while a reduction of peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor-gamma (PPARγ) gene expression and a reduction of SA-βgal-positive cells were found. Moreover, the treatment did not interfere with normal steroid 5-alpha reductase (5RDA3) gene expression levels. (4) Conclusions: Data collected demonstrated the biosafety of the lotion, the non-comedogenic property and a multi targets anti-aging effect. In particular, data collected on the booster lotion make it a valid way to counteract the pore dilatation aging related.