(Bio)Technological aspects of microalgae pigments for cosmetics

• Published in: Applied microbiology and biotechnology Vol. 104; no. 22; pp. 9513 - 9522
• Main Authors: Morocho-Jácome, Ana Lucía, Ruscinc, Nadia, Martinez, Renata Miliani, de Carvalho, João Carlos Monteiro, Santos de Almeida, Tânia, Rosado, Catarina, Costa, João Guilherme, Velasco, Maria Valéria Robles, Baby, André Rolim
• Format: Journal Article
• Language: English
• Published: Berlin/Heidelberg Springer Berlin Heidelberg 01-11-2020; Springer; Springer Nature B.V
• Subjects: Aging; Aging (natural); Algae; Anti-inflammatory agents; Antioxidants; Astaxanthin; beta Carotene; Bioactive compounds; Biological Factors; Biomedical and Life Sciences; Biotechnological microorganisms; Biotechnology; Carbon dioxide; Carotene; Chemical properties; Chlorophyll; Consumers; Cosmeceuticals; Cosmetics; Cyanobacteria; Formulations; Inflammation; Ingredients; Irritation; Life Sciences; Materials; Microalgae; Microbial biotechnology; Microbial Genetics and Genomics; Microbiology; Microorganisms; Mini-Review; Organic pigments; Photosynthesis; Phycobiliproteins; Physiological aspects; Pigmentation; Pigments; Production processes; Safety; Solar radiation; Xanthophylls; β-Carotene; Brazil; Microalgae; Safety; Pigment extraction; Cyanobacteria; Cosmeceuticals
• ISSN: 0175-7598; 1432-0614
• DOI: 10.1007/s00253-020-10936-x

Photosynthetic microorganisms convert carbon dioxide and solar radiation into interesting bioactive compounds not yet entirely explored. Several species of microalgae are known to be rich in colored high-valuable components that, although remarkable, are poorly explored as natural sources of pigments for cosmetics. Pigments associated to photosynthetic activity include chlorophyll, β-carotene, astaxanthin, xanthophylls, and phycobiliproteins, many of which have shown high potential as cosmetic actives due to their antioxidant, immune-enhancing, and anti-inflammatory properties. In the last decade, concern with a young and beautiful appearance has emerged, encouraging many consumers to use anti-aging cosmetics daily. As a result, the cosmetic market has been growing and evolving rapidly to meet consumer expectations. However, due to regular use and the sensitive nature of facial skin, local adverse reactions may often occur, such as irritation, sensitization, or photoreactions, and safety evaluation is mandatory prior to marketing. It is, therefore, understandable that new actives from natural sources, such as microalgae, are perceived as attractive alternatives for consumers who seek ingredients without allergenic potential. Thus, the cosmetic industry has recently started to explore the inclusion of compounds extracted from microalgae and cyanobacteria in innovative formulations. Herein, we revised nontraditional microalgae species for pigment production with cosmetic applications, indicating those that could also be considered potential ingredients for innovative cosmetics.
Key points
• Extraction methods for pigments from photosynthetic microorganisms were compiled.
• Innovative cosmeceuticals could be developed with natural pigments.
• Safety features of such natural pigments were also described.