In vitro and in vivo evaluation of a moisture treatment cream containing three critical elements of natural skin moisturization

• Published in: Journal of cosmetic dermatology Vol. 19; no. 5; pp. 1121 - 1128
• Main Authors: McDaniel, David H., Dover, Jeffrey S., Wortzman, Mitchell, Nelson, Diane B.
• Format: Journal Article
• Language: English
• Published: England John Wiley and Sons Inc 01-05-2020
• Subjects: Adult; Aged; Biomarkers - analysis; Biomarkers - metabolism; cosmeceutical; Cosmeceuticals - administration & dosage; Cosmeceuticals - adverse effects; Drug Administration Schedule; Epidermis - drug effects; Epidermis - metabolism; Female; Humans; hydration; Male; Middle Aged; moisturizing; Original Contribution; photoaging of the skin; Rejuvenation; Skin Aging - drug effects; skin barrier; Skin Care; Skin Cream - administration & dosage; Skin Cream - adverse effects; Tissue Culture Techniques; Treatment Outcome; Water Loss, Insensible - drug effects; moisturizing; skin barrier; cosmeceutical; hydration; photoaging of the skin
• ISSN: 1473-2130; 1473-2165
• DOI: 10.1111/jocd.13359

Objectives
To evaluate skin barrier and hydration effects of a new rebalancing moisture treatment (TRMT) and to assess efficacy and tolerability in subjects with photodamaged skin.
Methods
In an epidermal skin model, tissues (n = 5/group) were topically treated with 25 µL of TRMT, 25 µL of a market‐leading moisturizer (MLM), or untreated for 60 minutes. Hydration was measured at 0, 15, and 30 minutes. Tissues were harvested for gene expression analysis of markers associated with skin barrier and hydration: Claudin (CLD), Aquaporin (AQP), Hyaluronic Acid Syntheses (HAS), and Hyaluronidase (HYAL). A clinical study evaluated twice‐daily application of TRMT, assessing changes in fine lines/wrinkles, brightness, texture, erythema, and tolerability from baseline through week 8. Hydration was measured using electrical impedance.
Results
TRMT and MLM demonstrated significant increases in hydration vs untreated tissue at each timepoint (P < .005), with greater hydration effects observed for TRMT vs MLM. TRMT‐treated tissues demonstrated greater expression of CLD, AQP, and HA, and reduced expression of HYAL vs untreated and MLM‐treated tissues. Twice‐daily application of TRMT demonstrated significant improvements at 2 weeks in fine lines/wrinkles (P < .001), brightness (P < .0001), texture (P < .0004), and hydration (P < .004). At 8 weeks, statistically significant improvements were achieved in all categories.
Conclusion
In an epidermal skin model, TRMT demonstrated significant increases in hydration, greater hydration effects, and expression of key markers associated with skin barrier and hydration vs a MLM. Twice‐daily application of TRMT was well tolerated and resulted in early, significant improvements in hydration and visible improvements in skin brightness, texture, fine lines/wrinkles, and erythema at 8 weeks.