Use of a hypobaric chamber for pre-acclimatization before climbing Mount Everest

• Published in: International journal of sports medicine Vol. 13 Suppl 1; p. S216
• Main Authors: Richalet, J P, Bittel, J, Herry, J P, Savourey, G, Le Trong, J L, Auvert, J F, Janin, C
• Format: Journal Article
• Language: English
• Published: Germany 01-10-1992
• Subjects: Acclimatization - physiology; Adult; Altitude; Atmosphere Exposure Chambers; Female; France; Humans; Hypoxia - physiopathology; Hypoxia - prevention & control; Male; Mountaineering - physiology; Nepal; Oxygen Consumption - physiology; Physical Endurance - physiology
• ISSN: 0172-4622
• DOI: 10.1055/s-2007-1024644

Climbing Mount Everest needs an acclimatization period of 3 to 4 weeks between 3000 and 6000 m. In order to reduce this period of time spent in dangerous conditions, an experience of pre-acclimatization was performed with 5 elite alpinists (4 male, 1 female), aged 30 +/- 4 yrs (mean +/- SD), before their attempt to climb Mount Everest. Subjects first remained one week on Mont-Blanc (between 4350 and 4807 m), then spent a total of 38 hours in a hypobaric chamber (in 4 consecutive days) from 5000 to 8500 m standard altitude. Then, they flew to Kathmandu and reached 7800 m five days only after leaving the base camp. The pre-acclimatization period showed a 12% increase in hemoglobin concentration, and no change in ventilatory response to hypoxia. Arterial oxygen saturation at submaximal exercise in hypoxia (FIO2 = 0.115) increased from 75 +/- 4 to 82 +/- 3%, probably because of an efficient ventilatory acclimatization. On Mount Everest, the speed of ascent was very high (5600 m of altitude gain in 6 days), knowing that in conventional expeditions, 12 to 32 days are generally necessary to reach, safe, the same altitude. In conclusion, pre-acclimatization seems to have triggered efficient mechanisms which allowed climbers to save 1 to 3 weeks of time in mountain conditions.