From Coffee Waste to Active Ingredient for Cosmetic Applications

Coffee silverskin (CS) is the thin epidermis covering and protecting the coffee bean and it represents the main by-product of the coffee roasting process. CS has recently gained attention due to its high content in bioactive molecules and the growing interest in valuable reutilization of waste produ...

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Bibliographic Details
Published in:	International journal of molecular sciences Vol. 24; no. 10; p. 8516
Main Authors:	Grigolon, Giovanna, Nowak, Kathrin, Poigny, Stéphane, Hubert, Jane, Kotland, Alexis, Waldschütz, Laura, Wandrey, Franziska
Format:	Journal Article
Language:	English
Published:	Switzerland MDPI AG 10-05-2023 MDPI
Subjects:	Acylglycerols Antioxidants - pharmacology cafestol Caffeine Carbon dioxide chemical profiling Coffee Coffee industry coffee silverskin Cosmetics diterpenoid esters Epidermis Esters Fatty acids Female Food Food processing Gene expression Humans Hydration Irritation kahweol Keratinocytes Lipids Metabolites Oxidative Stress Questionnaires Roasters Skin Skin - metabolism Sodium dodecyl sulfate Sterols Supercritical gas extraction sustainability France Germany coffee silverskin skin-barrier hydration eco-friendly extraction chemical profiling diterpenoid esters sustainability cafestol kahweol
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Summary:	Coffee silverskin (CS) is the thin epidermis covering and protecting the coffee bean and it represents the main by-product of the coffee roasting process. CS has recently gained attention due to its high content in bioactive molecules and the growing interest in valuable reutilization of waste products. Drawing inspiration from its biological function, here its potential in cosmetic applications was investigated. CS was recovered from one of the largest coffee roasters located in Switzerland and processed through supercritical CO extraction, thereby generating coffee silverskin extract. Chemical profiling of this extract revealed the presence of potent molecules, among which cafestol and kahweol fatty acid esters, as well as acylglycerols, β-sitosterol and caffeine. The CS extract was then dissolved in organic shea butter, yielding the cosmetic active ingredient SLVR'Coffee™. In vitro gene expression studies performed on keratinocytes showed an upregulation of genes involved in oxidative stress responses and skin-barrier functionality upon treatment with the coffee silverskin extract. In vivo, our active protected the skin against Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)-induced irritation and accelerated its recovery. Furthermore, this active extract improved measured as well as perceived skin hydration in female volunteers, making it an innovative, bioinspired ingredient that comforts the skin and benefits the environment.
Bibliography:	ObjectType-Article-1 SourceType-Scholarly Journals-1 ObjectType-Feature-2 content type line 23
ISSN:	1422-0067 1661-6596 1422-0067
DOI:	10.3390/ijms24108516