Negligible penetration of incidental amounts of alpha-hydroxy acid from rinse-off personal care products in human skin using an in vitro static diffusion cell model

Negligible penetration of incidental amounts of alpha-hydroxy acid from rinse-off personal care products in human skin using an in vitro static diffusion cell model

► 10% glycolic acid lotions reportedly increase skin damage after UV light exposure. ► Penetration of AHAs into human skin is pH-, concentration-, and time-dependent. ► We examine in vitro human skin penetration of AHAs in rinse-off products. ► Rinsing within minutes removes >99% of AHAs in rinse...

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Bibliographic Details
Published in:Toxicology in vitro Vol. 25; no. 8; pp. 2041 - 2047
Main Authors: Okuda, M., Donahue, D.A., Kaufman, L.E., Avalos, J., Simion, F.A., Story, D.C., Sakaguchi, H., Fautz, R., Fuchs, A.
Format: Journal Article
Language:English
Published: England Elsevier Ltd 01-12-2011
Subjects:
Aging
Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA)
Cosmetics
Epidermis - chemistry
Epidermis - metabolism
Glycolates - chemistry
Glycolates - metabolism
Hair Preparations - chemistry
Hair Preparations - metabolism
Humans
In Vitro Techniques
Lactic acid
Lactic Acid - chemistry
Lactic Acid - metabolism
Malates - chemistry
Malates - metabolism
Malic acid
OECD 428
Skin Absorption
Skin penetration
Time Factors
Water - chemistry
Skin penetration
Malic acid
Cosmetics
Lactic acid
OECD 428
Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA)
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Summary:► 10% glycolic acid lotions reportedly increase skin damage after UV light exposure. ► Penetration of AHAs into human skin is pH-, concentration-, and time-dependent. ► We examine in vitro human skin penetration of AHAs in rinse-off products. ► Rinsing within minutes removes >99% of AHAs in rinse-off products from the skin. ► AHAs in rinse-off products likely do not increase UV-dependent skin effects. Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), primarily glycolic and lactic acids, are widely used in cosmetics to alleviate dyspigmentation, photodamage, and other aging skin conditions and as pH adjusters. Glycolic acid reportedly enhances skin damage after repeated ultraviolet light exposure, e.g., increased sunburn cell formation. This study assessed potential in vitro skin penetration of lactic acid and malic acid incorporated into rinse-off personal care products, compared with rinse-off and leave-on exposures to glycolic acid (10%, pH3.5) in a reference lotion. Radiolabeled AHA-fortified shampoo, conditioner, and lotion were evenly applied as single doses to human epidermal membranes mounted in static diffusion cells (not occluded). Exposures were 1–3min (rinse-off) or 24h (leave-on). Epidermal penetration of malic acid and lactic acid from the rinse-off shampoo and conditioner, respectively, was negligible, with >99% removed by rinsing, a negligible portion remaining in the stratum corneum (⩽0.15%), and even less penetrating into the viable epidermis (⩽0.04%). Glycolic acid penetration from the leave-on reference lotion was 1.42μgequiv./cm2/h, with total absorbable dose recovery (receptor fluid plus epidermis) of 2.51%, compared to 0.009%, 0.003%, and 0.04% for the rinse-off reference lotion, shampoo (malic acid), and conditioner (lactic acid) exposures, respectively. Dermal penetration of AHAs into human skin is pH-, concentration-, and time-dependent. Alpha-hydroxy acids in rinse-off shampoos and conditioners are almost entirely removed from the skin within minutes by rinsing (resulting in negligible epidermal penetration). This suggests that ultraviolet radiation-induced skin effects of AHA-containing rinse-off products are negligible.
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ISSN:0887-2333
1879-3177
DOI:10.1016/j.tiv.2011.08.005