Incorporation of glycolic extract of cocoa beans (Theobroma cacao L.) into microemulsions and emulgels for skincare

[Display omitted] •The extract of Theobroma cacao L. bean was prepared in propylene glycol.•Molecular networking studies indicated polyphenolic compounds as flavonoids.•The extract contains expressive amounts of methylxanthines and polyphenols.•A microemulsion was selected from a phase diagram using...

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Bibliographic Details
Published in:	Industrial crops and products Vol. 161; p. 113181
Main Authors:	Garcia, Laryana B., Pires, Gabriela A., Oliveira, Denise A.J., Silva, Lorena A.O., Gomes, Angélica F., Amaral, Juliano G., Pereira, Gislaine R., Ruela, André L.M.
Format:	Journal Article
Language:	English
Published:	Elsevier B.V 01-03-2021
Subjects:	Cocoa Emulgel Methylxanthines Microemulsion Molecular networking Skincare Molecular networking Methylxanthines Skincare Microemulsion Cocoa Emulgel
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Summary:	[Display omitted] •The extract of Theobroma cacao L. bean was prepared in propylene glycol.•Molecular networking studies indicated polyphenolic compounds as flavonoids.•The extract contains expressive amounts of methylxanthines and polyphenols.•A microemulsion was selected from a phase diagram using polysorbate 80 as surfactant.•The glycolic extract of cocoa bean was incorporated in the oil-in-water microemulsion. Cocoa (Theobroma cacao L.) beans contain large amounts of polyphenols and methylxanthines. The synergistic interactions between these bioactive and their health benefits are unclear. The extract of cocoa beans may be considered for the development of products intended for skincare. The glycolic extract of cocoa beans was prepared using propylene glycol as the solvent and the phytochemical analysis of the extract was performed using molecular networking and high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) coupled to mass spectrometry in tandem (ESI-MS/MS) analysis. The amounts of methylxanthines (caffeine and theobromine) were determined by HPLC with photodiode array detection. The concentrations of caffeine and theobromine in the extract were 0.3, and 1.0 mg ml−1, respectively. Analysis by HPLC/ESI-MS/MS indicated that the extract contains amino acids, proanthocyanidins, and a rich flavonoid composition, including (-)-epicatechin. The cocoa extract was incorporated into the topical formulations (emulgel and microemulsion). These formulations were extensively characterized in terms of their physicochemical properties and rheological behavior. The results indicate that cocoa beans are a promising source of bioactive compounds that can be incorporated into topical cosmetic preparations with potential skincare properties.
ISSN:	0926-6690 1872-633X
DOI:	10.1016/j.indcrop.2020.113181