The future of enzymes in cosmetics

Synopsis The skin employs a host of protective mechanisms to defend itself against the ravages of the environment. One of the most widely studied protective mechanisms is the system of free radical scavengers. Free radical scavengers help to protect the skin by neutralizing dangerous substances that...

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Bibliographic Details
Published in:	International journal of cosmetic science Vol. 22; no. 2; pp. 85 - 94
Main Authors:	LODS, L. M, DRES, C, JOHNSON, C, SCHOLZ, D. B, BROOKS, G. J
Format:	Journal Article
Language:	English
Published:	Oxford, UK Blackwell Science Ltd 01-04-2000 Blackwell Science
Subjects:	Applied sciences Biological and medical sciences Chemical industry and chemicals Cosmetics, toiletries Dermatology enzymea erythema Exact sciences and technology Medical sciences peroxidase Pharmacology. Drug treatments Skin involvement in other diseases. Miscellaneous. General aspects Skin, nail, hair, dermoskeleton superoxide dismutase Washing products. Cosmetics and toiletries. Perfumes Cosmetic Skin disease Volunteer Lipids Superoxide dismutase Raw materials Saccharomyces Synergism Percutaneous route Fungi Efficiency Dicotyledones Angiospermae Ascomycetes Peroxidase Inhibition Mechanism of action Protection Thallophyta Peroxidation Human Enzyme Dermatology Foeniculum vulgare Antioxidant In vitro Radical scavenger In vivo Chemotherapy Experimental disease Ultraviolet radiation Treatment Peroxidases Plant origin Spermatophyta Skin Oxidoreductases Umbelliferae Erythema Topical administration
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Summary:	Synopsis The skin employs a host of protective mechanisms to defend itself against the ravages of the environment. One of the most widely studied protective mechanisms is the system of free radical scavengers. Free radical scavengers help to protect the skin by neutralizing dangerous substances that can be generated by sun exposure and pollution. Two such protective substances – superoxide dismutase and peroxidase – were examined for their ability to reduce UV‐induced erythema. The ability to reduce erythema is a measure of anti‐irritant capabilities, which can also be thought of as free radical scavenging ability. There has been some research that shows that superoxide dismutase (SOD) and peroxidase work synergistically. The action of SOD, which neutralizes the superoxide anion, can sometimes produce hydrogen peroxide, which can have a detrimental effect on the lipid barriers of the skin. When peroxidase is present, it can work to neutralize the hydrogen peroxide, thus giving a full spectrum of free radical protection. The present study employs a superoxide dismutase extracted from yeast. The peroxidase is found in an aqueous extract of fennel (Foeniculum vulgare). Minimal erythemal dose (MED) was determined on the panellists. Test compounds were then applied and then they were exposed to solar simulators in doses equivalent to their respective MEDs. Development of erythema was then measured via chromameter, and reduction in the development of redness was determined. Résumé La peau utilise un ensemble de mécanismes protecteurs pour se défendre contre les attaques de l’environnement. Un des mécanismes protecteurs les plus étudiés est le système de pièges à radicaux libres. Les pièges à radicaux libres aident à protéger la peau en neutralisant les substances dangereuses qui peuvent être produites par l’exposition au soleil et la pollution. On a étudié chez deux de ces substances protectrices – la superoxyde dismutase et la peroxydase – la capacitéà réduire l’érythème provoqué par les UV. La capacitéà réduire l’érythème est une mesure des capacités apaisantes, qui peuvent aussi être considérées comme une capacitéà piéger les radicaux libres. Certaines recherches montrent que la superoxyde dismutase (SOD) et la peroxydase fonctionnent en synergie. L’action de la SOD, qui neutralise l’anion superoxyde, peut certaines fois générer du peroxyde d’hydrogène, qui peut avoir un effet nocif sur les barrières lipidiques de la peau. Lorsque la peroxydase est présente, elle peut agir pour neutraliser le peroxyde d’hydrogène, apportant ainsi un spectre total de protection contre les radicaux libres. La présente étude utilise une superoxyde dismutase extraite de levure. La peroxydase provient d’un extrait aqueux de fenouil (Foeniculum vulgare). On détermine la dose minimale donnant un érythème (MED) sur les sujets. Les composés testés sont ensuite appliqués puis on les expose à des simulateurs solaires à des doses équivalentes à leurs MED respectives. Le développement de l’érythème est ensuite mesuré avec un chromomètre, et on détermine la réduction du développement de la rougeur.
Bibliography:	ArticleID:ICS012 istex:2EA68526646DDCF142E74BF7BE7CD93FFACF6F24 ark:/67375/WNG-M2J41NNS-X ObjectType-Article-1 SourceType-Scholarly Journals-1 ObjectType-Feature-2 content type line 23
ISSN:	0142-5463 1468-2494
DOI:	10.1046/j.1467-2494.2000.00012.x