Time-Averaged Probabilistic Model for Irregular Wave Runup on Permeable Slopes

Time-Averaged Probabilistic Model for Irregular Wave Runup on Permeable Slopes

A time-averaged probabilistic model is developed to predict irregular wave runup statistics on permeable slopes such as cobble beaches and revetments. The cross-shore variations of the mean and standard deviation of the free surface elevation and horizontal fluid velocities above and inside a porous...

Full description

Saved in:
Bibliographic Details
Published in:Journal of waterway, port, coastal, and ocean engineering Vol. 134; no. 2; pp. 88 - 96
Main Authors: Kobayashi, Nobuhisa, de los Santos, Francisco J, Kearney, Peter G
Format: Journal Article
Language:English
Published: Reston, VA American Society of Civil Engineers 01-03-2008
Subjects:
Dynamics of the ocean (upper and deep oceans)
Earth, ocean, space
Exact sciences and technology
External geophysics
Physics of the oceans
TECHNICAL PAPERS
Shoaling
Slopes
Wave effect
Wave runup
testing
permeability
Measurement result
Probability
digital simulation
Ocean dynamics
Forecast model
Modeling
beaches
Wave propagation
Time average
Probabilistic model
wave reflection
Comparative study
Online Access:Get full text
Tags: Add Tag
No Tags, Be the first to tag this record!
Description
Summary:A time-averaged probabilistic model is developed to predict irregular wave runup statistics on permeable slopes such as cobble beaches and revetments. The cross-shore variations of the mean and standard deviation of the free surface elevation and horizontal fluid velocities above and inside a porous layer are predicted using the time-averaged continuity, momentum, and energy equations. The mean and standard deviation of the shoreline elevation measured by a runup wire are estimated from the predicted mean and standard deviation of the free surface elevation. The wave runup height above the mean water level, including wave setup, is assumed to be given by the Rayleigh distribution. The wave reflection coefficient is estimated from the wave energy flux remaining at the still water shoreline. This computationally efficient model is shown to be in fair agreement with 57 small-scale tests conducted on 1∕5 and 1∕2 permeable slopes situated inside surf zones on impermeable gentle slopes.
Bibliography:ObjectType-Article-2
SourceType-Scholarly Journals-1
ObjectType-Feature-1
content type line 23
ISSN:0733-950X
1943-5460
DOI:10.1061/(ASCE)0733-950X(2008)134:2(88)